Nutgrass Identifying Treatment: Part 1

Okay so I'm just going to take a quick opportunity. We found some nutgrass in the backyard that I'm in today. So it's an excellent example. Nutgrass grows much faster than most turf varieties. It has a really waxy leaf. Normally only a couple of leaves coming out of it and there's also the Mullumbimby Sedge which is very very similar and it grows a seed head as well. Very very easy to kill selectively. It doesn't have to hurt your lawn. Jump onto The Lawn IQ website. There's Halo-Force the 750 herbicide. Also ProSedge and have a look there. Grab it. It's 25 grams. It'll last for ages. It'll sit on your shelf for ages. The reason why I'd be getting onto the nutgrass and treating it, it's a competitor for the nutrient that your lawn needs to survive and if you don't keep that nutgrass patch small it will continue to grow and grow and grow and take up more nutrients that should be there for your lawn. You get onto it early. You can knock it down but if it is a systemic long-term issue unfortunately those nuts keep recreating themselves down deeper in the profile so you will continue to need to retreat them. ProsSedge that I've got here or the 750 herbicide this dilutes down in your spray rig and you're spraying this out over the leaves. So a top tip for me when it comes to nutgrass is always mow. Give it three or four days to come up and be higher than the lawn you've got. Treat it. We want to make sure that we treat it and then we've got no rain for a few days after. We don't want to mow it after so we want to leave it on the leaf long-term and that way you're going to get the best knockdown. And like I said before super safe for your lawn. All different lawn varieties you can put this out and it's not going to hurt anything else. You can spray the whole lawn just the patch that's up to you.